— Expeditions
Ama Dablam
The most beautiful mountain on Earth — The true alpinist’s dream climb
Tech D/5
24 Days
6812
Price
€8999
Per Person
Overview
Ama Dablam (6,812m) is widely regarded as the most beautiful mountain in the world and one of the Himalaya’s greatest alpine climbs. Combining technical rock, ice, and mixed terrain, it is the ultimate challenge for experienced mountaineers. Guided by the Black Mountaineering expedition philosophy, you’ll climb with elite Sherpas, proven logistics, and meticulous planning. This is more than a summit, it’s one of mountaineering’s defining achievements.
- Summit Ama Dablam 6,812m, one of the world’s most iconic alpine peaks
- Widely regarded as the most beautiful mountain on Earth
- Elite Sherpa climbing team with outstanding guide-to-client ratios
- Proven acclimatisation strategy designed to maximise safety and summit success
- Premium expedition logistics with a fully supported Base Camp
- Technical alpine climbing across rock, ice, snow and fixed ropes
- High-altitude medical support and emergency communications throughout
- Small expedition teams for a personalised climbing experience
- Ideal progression for experienced climbers preparing for 7,000m and 8,000m expeditions
- Official Nepal Mountaineering Association Summit Certificate upon successful ascent
Location
Nepal
Duration
24 Days
Route
Southwestern ridge
Grade
Tech D/5
Altitude
6812
Activity
Approx 7-9 hrs
itinerary
Day 1
Welcome to Nepal and the start of your Ama Dablam Expedition.
Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you’ll be met by the Black Mountaineering expedition team and transferred to our team hotel in the heart of Kathmandu. The remainder of the day is yours to relax, recover from your journey, and settle in before the adventure begins.
Overnight: Team Hotel, Kathmandu (1,400m)
Day 2
Expedition briefing & final preparations.
Today is dedicated to preparing for the expedition ahead. Following breakfast, we’ll conduct a comprehensive expedition briefing, complete all official permit formalities, and carry out a thorough equipment check to ensure every climber is fully prepared.
There will also be time to purchase or hire any last-minute equipment before we leave Kathmandu and begin our journey into the Khumbu region.
Overnight: Team Hotel, Kathmandu (1,400m)
Day 3
Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding.
An early morning flight takes us into the heart of the Himalaya, landing at the world-famous Lukla Airport (2,860m). From here, we begin our trek through the beautiful Khumbu Valley, following the Dudh Koshi River, crossing suspension bridges, and passing traditional Sherpa villages before arriving in Phakding.
This is the first day on the trail and an exciting introduction to the Everest region.
Overnight: Lodge, Phakding (2,610m)
Day 4
Trek to Namche Bazaar.
Today we continue through the stunning Khumbu Valley, crossing a series of suspension bridges before entering Sagarmatha National Park. The trail then climbs steadily to the vibrant Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the Everest region and one of the most famous mountain settlements in the Himalaya.
Overnight: Lodge, Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Day 5
Acclimatisation day in Namche Bazaar.
Today is dedicated to acclimatisation, allowing your body to adapt to the increasing altitude. We’ll complete a short acclimatisation hike to a higher elevation before returning to Namche, following the proven principle of “climb high, sleep low.”
The afternoon is free to explore Namche Bazaar, visit the local cafés, museums, and equipment shops, or simply relax and prepare for the journey ahead.
Overnight: Lodge, Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Day 6
Trek to Tengboche.
Today’s spectacular trek offers breathtaking views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku as we make our way through rhododendron forests and traditional Sherpa villages. After crossing the Dudh Koshi River, we climb steadily to the famous monastery at Tengboche, one of the most spiritual and scenic locations in the Khumbu.
Overnight: Lodge, Tengboche (3,860m)
Day 7
Trek to Phortse.
Leaving Tengboche behind, we follow a quieter trail through the Khumbu Valley to the traditional Sherpa village of Phortse. Away from the main Everest route, this peaceful settlement is renowned for producing many of Nepal’s elite high-altitude climbers and offers spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, and the surrounding Himalayan peaks.
Overnight: Lodge, Phortse (3,840m)
Day 8
Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Today we leave the villages behind and enter the true expedition environment. The trail climbs steadily across alpine meadows and rugged mountain terrain before arriving at Ama Dablam Base Camp, set beneath one of the world’s most beautiful and iconic mountains.
From here, our focus shifts from trekking to climbing as we settle into Base Camp, organise equipment, and begin preparations for the expedition ahead.
Overnight: Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,450m)
Day 09-19
Climbing rotations & summit period of Ama Dablam.
Over the next 10 days, we’ll follow a carefully planned acclimatisation and climbing programme, making a series of rotations to Camp 1 and Camp 2 to acclimatise, refine our climbing systems, and position equipment ahead of the summit push.
Our summit attempt will be made when both weather conditions and the team’s acclimatisation are optimal. Throughout the expedition, our elite Sherpa climbing team and expedition leader will continuously monitor forecasts, route conditions, and the wellbeing of every climber to maximise both safety and summit success.
Climbing Ama Dablam (6,812m) is one of the world’s great alpine mountaineering achievements—combining technical rock, snow, and ice climbing on one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalaya.
Overnight: Ama Dablam Base Camp & High Camps
Day 20
Following your summit attempt, you have two options for your descent from Ama Dablam.
Option 1 – Helicopter to Lukla
Save valuable trekking time by taking an optional helicopter flight directly to Lukla, reducing your number of days on the mountain before flying back to Kathmandu. (Additional cost – please enquire for current pricing.)
Option 2 – Continue with the Expedition Itinerary
Follow the standard itinerary and enjoy the classic descent through the Khumbu Valley, trekking back to Namche Bazaar with the team before continuing to Lukla.
Overnight: Lodge, Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
Day 21
Follow the standard itinerary, trekking back through the spectacular Khumbu Valley to Lukla
Day 22
This morning we board our return flight from Lukla to Kathmandu, weather and flight schedules permitting. After arriving back in the capital, you’ll have time to relax, enjoy a hot shower, and celebrate the successful completion of your Ama Dablam Expedition.
Overnight: Team Hotel, Kathmandu (1,400m)
Day 23
A contingency day is built into the itinerary to allow for delays caused by weather or unforeseen circumstances. Flights to and from Lukla are highly dependent on mountain weather, and low cloud or fog can occasionally delay departures.
This additional day provides valuable flexibility, helping to minimise the risk of missed international connections while ensuring the expedition can be completed safely without unnecessary pressure.
Day 24
After breakfast, the Black Mountaineering logistics team will transfer you from the team hotel to Kathamandu International Airport to meet your international flight home.
As you leave Nepal, you’ll take with you unforgettable memories, lifelong friendships, and the achievement of climbing one of the world’s most iconic and sought-after mountaineering objectives—Ama Dablam.
Included
What’s Included
- Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla as per the expedition itinerary
- Airport transfers on arrival and departure
- 3 nights hotel accommodation in Kathmandu
(3★, shared basis with breakfast) - Welcome and celebration dinner with the Black Mountaineering team
- All Ama Dablam climbing permits and government paperwork
- Environmental and garbage management fees
- Porter support (up to 45kg per member)
- Meals daily throughout the trek and expedition
- Continental, Nepali, Indian and Chinese cuisine with hot drinks
- Boiled drinking water throughout the expedition
- Black Mountaineering 120L Expedition Duffle Bag
- Individual Base Camp tent, mattress and pillow
- 1:1 Elite Climbing Sherpa support
- All Nepalese staff and porter salaries, equipment, food and allowances
- Emergency oxygen available (chargeable if used)
- Daily professional weather forecasting
- Satellite phone available for emergency use
- Comprehensive high-altitude medical kit
- Official Ama Dablam Summit Certificate issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association
What’s Not Included
-
- International flights to and from Nepal
- Early heli departure from Ama Basecamp ($300)
- Nepal entry visa (payable on arrival)
- Lunches and dinners while staying in Kathmandu
(excluding the welcome and celebration dinners) - Additional hotel nights in Kathmandu
(Single: €80 per night | Double/Twin: €100 per night) - Personal travel insurance
- High-altitude medical and emergency helicopter rescue insurance
(minimum USD $50,000 cover is mandatory for all participants) - Personal climbing equipment and clothing
- Personal expenses including internet, Wi-Fi, battery charging, hot showers, laundry, snacks, and drinks
- Personal porter gratuity (USD $150)
- Ama Dablam Base Camp staff gratuity (USD $250 )
- Ama Dablam Climbing Sherpa summit bonus (USD $700)
- Base Camp Wi-Fi (USD $100 for the expedition)
- Any item not specifically listed under What’s Included
Available Dates
How Fit Do You Need to Be for Ama Dablam (6,812m)
Ama Dablam is one of the most technical and physically demanding 6,000m peaks in the Himalayas. It requires elite endurance, high-altitude acclimatisation, technical climbing skills, and mental resilience. This is not a trekking peak—it is a true alpine climbing challenge with steep rock, ice, and exposed ridge sections.
📌 Physical Requirements for Ama Dablam
1. Elite Endurance & Cardiovascular Fitness
- The climb involves steep, sustained exertion for multiple days, with 1,000m+ daily ascents at high altitude.
- Summit day is 10–15 hours, requiring high oxygen efficiency and endurance at 6,812m.
- The approach trek takes 6–8 days to reach Base Camp (4,600m), with daily 5–7 hour hikes.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Hike 15–25 km (9–15 miles) with a 15–20 kg pack at least once a week.
- Stair climbing (60 min with a 15 kg pack).
- Running, cycling, or swimming (3–5 times a week, 45–90 min per session).
2. Strength & Load-Carrying Ability
- You will carry a 15–20 kg pack on steep, technical terrain.
- Expect vertical rock climbing (5.7–5.8 grade) with exposure at 6,000m+.
- The Yellow Tower (6,100m) and Mushroom Ridge (6,400m) require upper-body strength for rope ascents.
✅ Training Recommendations:
- Squats, lunges, deadlifts (for leg power).
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a 15 kg pack.
- Planks & core exercises (for stability on uneven terrain).
- Farmer’s carry (15 kg per hand) for grip & pack strength.
- Pull-ups, dead hangs, and grip training (for rope ascents and rock climbing).
3. High-Altitude Acclimatisation
- You will be climbing and sleeping above 6,000m for multiple nights.
- The risk of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), HAPE, and HACE is high, we
recommend you use Diamox during the expedition to support your High-Altitude Acclimatisation
✅ Preparation Recommendations:
- Develop a really strong respiratory system
- Some use a hypoxic tent or altitude training mask to simulate low oxygen levels.
- Practice deep breathing and controlled oxygen efficiency techniques.
4. Advanced Technical Climbing Skills
- Ama Dablam is a highly technical climb, requiring solid rock, ice, and mixed climbing skills.
- You must be proficient in fixed rope climbing, rappelling, and exposed ridge travel.
- The Yellow Tower and Mushroom Ridge are very exposed, requiring confidence with jumars and self-belays.
✅ Skills to Master Before Attempting Ama Dablam:
- Climbing at least 5.7– 5.8 rock grade with a backpack using a Jumar on a fixed rope.
- Ice axe use & crampon techniques on steep ice/snow slopes (50–60°).
- Rappelling and self-arrest techniques.
- Grade 5 scramble climbing (practice on alpine styled routes).
5. Mental Toughness & Resilience
- Ama Dablam’s exposed ridges, vertical walls, and high-altitude suffering will push you to your limits.
- Expect extreme cold (-30°C), exhaustion, and the mental challenge of long exposure on steep terrain.
- You will spend multiple nights at high altitude (Camp 2, 5,900m) on small ledges.
✅ Mental Training:
- Train in cold, harsh conditions to simulate summit day suffering.
- Do long, exhausting training hikes and climbs back-to-back.
- Train with a weight vest or heavy pack to simulate climbing with gear.
- Practice multi-day alpine climbs with exposed ridges.
📍 Minimum Fitness Benchmarks for Ama Dablam
You should be able to:
✅ Hike 1,500m+ elevation gain with a 15–20 kg pack (6–10 hrs).
✅ Run 15 km in under 90 minutes (for high-altitude endurance).
✅ Climb stairs for 60 min with a 15 kg pack.
✅ Experience rock climbing 5.7–5.8 comfortably with a back pack.
✅ Perform 10+ pull-ups and dead hangs for 30+ sec (for rope work).
✅ Handle long 8hr multi-days out on climbs back to back.
⛏ Who Should NOT Attempt Ama Dablam?
🚫 If you have no high-altitude climbing experience (above 4,000m).
🚫 If you cannot carry a heavy pack on steep terrain for multiple days.
🚫 If you lack technical mountaineering experience (rock, ice, fixed ropes, rappelling).
🚫 If you struggle with exposure, extreme cold, and altitude sickness.
Final Thoughts
Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful but demanding Himalayan peaks. It requires elite endurance, technical climbing ability, and mental resilience. If you have experience on 4,000m peaks and solid rock/ice climbing skills, you are ready to take on this legendary climb.
Would you like a 12-week training plan for Ama Dablam? Let me know your current fitness level, and I’ll tailor one for you!
12-Week Training Plan for Ama Dablam (6,812m)
This 12-week training plan is designed to prepare you for the physical and technical demands of Ama Dablam, one of the most challenging and technical 6,000m peaks. The plan focuses on endurance, strength, altitude adaptation, and technical climbing skills to ensure you have the fitness and resilience needed for a successful summit.
📌 Weekly Training Schedule Overview
|
Day |
Activity |
|
Monday |
Strength Training + Stair Climb with Pack |
|
Tuesday |
Cardio (Running/Cycling) + Core |
|
Wednesday |
Weighted Hike (12–20 km) |
|
Thursday |
Strength + Technical Skills (Rock Climbing, Ice Axe, Fixed Ropes) |
|
Friday |
Rest or Light Recovery (Yoga, Stretching) |
|
Saturday |
Long Hike (15–25 km, 1,000–1,500m ascent) |
|
Sunday |
Active Recovery (Swimming, Cycling) or Altitude Training |
🏋️♂️ Phase 1 (Weeks 1–4): Building Base Endurance & Strength
Goal: Develop high-altitude endurance, core stability, and upper/lower body strength to handle rock, ice, and steep climbs.
✅ Hiking & Trekking
- 10–15 km (6–9 miles) hikes with a 12–15 kg backpack.
- 600–1,000m elevation gain.
- 4–6 hours duration.
- Use trekking poles for knee protection and stability.
✅ Strength Training (2x per week)
- Squats – 4 sets of 10 reps.
- Lunges – 3 sets of 10 reps per leg.
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a weighted pack – 3 sets of 12 reps per leg.
- Deadlifts – 3 sets of 8 reps (for core and lower back strength).
- Pull-ups & Dead Hangs – 3 sets of 6 reps (for rope work and climbing strength).
- Planks & Hanging Leg Raises (for core stability).
✅ Cardio Training
- 60 min runs or cycling/swimming at moderate intensity.
- Stair climbing (30 min with a 15 kg pack).
- Rowing or incline treadmill for lung capacity improvement.
✅ Technical Training
- Basic rock climbing (5.6–5.7 difficulty).
- Practice rappelling and using an ascender (Jumar).
- Walking in crampons on varied terrain.
🏔 Phase 2 (Weeks 5–8): Strength, Altitude Adaptation & Technical Training
Goal: Increase hiking difficulty, elevation gain, and technical climbing ability.
✅ Hiking & Trekking
- 15–20 km (9–12 miles) with a 15–18 kg pack.
- 1,000–1,200m elevation gain.
- 6–8 hours duration.
- Back-to-back hikes on weekends (Saturday & Sunday).
✅ Strength & Load Carrying (2x per week)
- Step-ups (50 cm box) with a 15 kg pack – 3 sets of 15 reps per leg.
- Deadlifts – 4 sets of 6 reps (for pack-carrying strength).
- Farmer’s Carry (20 kg per hand) – 3 sets of 30m (for grip & backpack strength).
- Pull-ups & Grip Training (for technical climbing and fixed ropes).
✅ Cardio & Endurance
- 70 min continuous run, cycling, or swimming.
- High-Intensity Interval Training (HIIT): 5x 3 min fast, 3 min slow.
- Rowing or stair climbing for 45 min with a 12 kg pack.
✅ Technical Training & Terrain Adaptation
- Rock climbing (5.7–5.9 difficulty) with a pack.
- Fixed rope ascents with Jumar and rappelling practice.
- Glacier travel techniques and ice axe work.
✅ Acclimatisation & Altitude Prep
- Train twice a week in a HITT class (high intensity)
- Use an altitude tent or hypoxic mask for simulation.
- Increase exposure to cold weather & strong winds.
🏆 Phase 3 (Weeks 9–12): Peak Performance & Expedition Simulation
Goal: Simulate multi-day climbing, maximise endurance, and finalise preparations.
✅ Hiking & Load-Carrying
- 20–25 km (12–15 miles) with a 15–20 kg pack.
- 1,200–1,500m elevation gain.
- Back-to-back long hikes (Saturday & Sunday) – 8+ hours per day.
- Summit a local peak (if possible) to simulate high-altitude trekking.
✅ Final Strength & Endurance Training
- Stair Climbing (60 min with a 15 kg pack).
- Bulgarian Split Squats – 3 sets of 12 per leg.
- Planks & Hanging Leg Raises – 3 sets of 1 min.
✅ Technical & Cold-Weather Training
- Train in full cold-weather gear at night (simulate summit day conditions).
- Rock climb at 5.8–5.9 difficulty with a loaded pack.
- Ice axe and crampon practice on steep terrain.
- Simulate an alpine start (hike at 3 AM with heavy pack).
✅ Mental Training & Simulation
- Practice long hikes in freezing temperatures (-10°C if possible).
- Train in remote locations to simulate expedition conditions.
- Visualise and mentally prepare for summit day exhaustion.
✅ Recovery & Injury Prevention
- Cold showers & ice baths to prepare for extreme temperatures.
- Stretching & foam rolling to prevent muscle tightness.
📍Final 2 Weeks (Taper & Recovery)
🔹 Reduce heavy training (Taper).
🔹 Focus on mobility, stretching, and rest.
🔹 Test your full gear & pack during a light hike.
🔹 Hydration & nutrition strategy practice.
💡 Key Training Tips
✔ Train in your boots & backpack early to get used to heavy loads.
✔ Use trekking poles to protect knees on long descents.
✔ Train slow, steady breathing at altitude to improve oxygen efficiency.
✔ Practice on mixed terrain (rock, ice, loose scree, high exposure).
✔ Train in extreme conditions (cold, high wind, night trekking).
✔ Hydration & nutrition practice – Know what fuels you best.
✔ Recovery matters! – Foam roll, stretch, and prioritise sleep.
🚀 Are You Ready for Ama Dablam?
✅ Can you hike 1,500m+ with a 20 kg pack?
✅ Can you handle 8-hour climbs back-to-back at altitude?
✅ Have you trained in cold, high-altitude conditions?
✅ Are you comfortable with technical climbing, rock scrambling, and rappelling?
If you check all the boxes, you’re ready for one of the Himalayas’ greatest challenges!
Would you like customised adjustments based on your fitness level? Let me know!
We’ll look at your previous experience, and analyse key performance data, that we’ll ask you to share when you sign up. We can then recommend preparation climbs leading up to this expedition, to give you the best possible chance of reaching your goal, if required.
Passport 6mts Valid
Debit/Credit Cards
Insurance Papers
Photocopy of passport
Base Layers
Merino Wool Underwear (4 pcs)
Merino long sleeve base layer (2 pcs)
Merino long pants base layer (2 pcs)
Merino Short Sleeve T Shirt (2 pcs)
Mid Layers
Fleece (2pcs)
Heavyweight Hiking Pants (2pcs)
Lightweight Hiking Pants (2pcs)
Windproof/Rain Layers
Hard Shell Jacket (1pcs)
Hard Shell Pants (1pcs)
Insulation Layers
800+gram Goose Down Jacket with hood
Insulated Pants
Summit day Down Suit (optional)
Headwear
Warm Hat (2pcs)
Balaclava (1pcs)
Baseball Cap (1pcs)
Bandana or Buff (2pcs)
Eyewear
Cat 4 Glacier Glasses
UV Nose protector
Ski Goggles
Gloves
Lightweight Liner Gloves
Shell Guide Glove with Insulated Liner
7000m Expedition Mitts
Footwear
Liner Socks (3 pairs)
Wool or Synthetic Socks (3 pairs)
Double Skin Mountaineering Boots 6000-8000m (Kailas / Lasportiva / Millet)
Trekking Approach Shoes
Camp Booties (optional)
Sleeping Equipment
Sleeping Bag -30°C
Inflatable Sleeping Pad
Closed-cell Foam Pad
Earplugs
Inflatable Pillow
Mountaineering Gear
Large 120ltr Duffel Bag
Expedition Backpack 75L+
Trekking Backpack 30L
Trekking poles (optional)
Ice Axe (2pcs)
Crampons
Climbing Helmet
Ascender/Jumar
“Y” Rig for ascender & carabiner
Accessory Cord: 9m of 6mm.
Proper Climbing Harness
Locking Carabineers (6pcs)
Un-locking Carabineers (2pcs)
Sling / 240 cm (2pcs)
Belay/Rappel Device (2pcs)
Headlight 500-700 Lumens (2pcs)
Travel Items
Small hotel Duffel Bag
Travel Clothes
Cash
Visa Card
ATM card
Medical
Personal First-aid kit
Sutures & steri strips
Ibuprofen
Paracetamol
250mg Diamox 20days
Medicated throat lozenges
Medicated throat spray
Antibiotic Azithromycin 500mg
Laxatives
Imodium
Mosquito repellent
Menstrual products
Electrolytes
Nail cutter
Duct tape – Repair Kit
Hand & Feet chemical warmers
Additional Food Items
Snack food
Salty-sweet bars
Summit gels
Nuts
Beef jerky
Toiletries (Personal)
Toilet Paper
Toothpaste &Toothbrush
Bio Baby wipes (2pcs)
Soap
Shampoo
Shaver
Towel
Small nail-brush
Sunscreen: SPF 50
Lip Screen: SPF 30
Aftersun
Additional Items
Compression Stuff Sacks
Plastic Cup (high camps)
Plastic Bowl (high camps)
Plastic Spoon (high camp)
Water Bottles 1- liter (3pcs)
Thermos 1- liter
Pee Bottle 1- litre
Female Urination Device (FUD)
Knife or Multi-tool (optional)
Optional Electronics
Country-appropriate power adapters
Avalanche Transceiver
Adventure Sports Watch
GPS/ Garmin inReach Mini
Sherpa 100AC Power Bank
Phone camera
Batteries
Charging leads
See more about our payment policy Here
On Booking your expedition our returns policy can be viewed here
This is Mandatory and you will not receive your permit to climb from the National park rangers until you show proof of Insurance for up to 7,000 meters at the park gate apron entry.
It is your responsibility to ensure that you have sufficient personal travel insurance for this expedition. Your policy must provide cover for; a) medical injury or sickness b) trekking up to 7,000 meters (c) helicopter evacuation in an emergency situation, and d) repatriation to one’s country of residence. You must declare any pre-existing medical conditions to your insurers and ensure you receive written confirmation that any pre-existing medical conditions are fully insured. We advise you to obtain travel insurance as soon as you book, that will cover you for unforeseeable circumstances such as illness or injury that might result in you not being able to take part in your expedition.
1. Medical injury or sickness
2. Mountaineering above 5,000 metres
3. Helicopter evacuation in an emergency situation
4. Repatriation to country of residence.
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